 |
|  |
| Author |
Message |
Tim Leahy
Moderator
Age: 52
Joined: 08 Mar 2005
Posts: 1075
Location: Newport R.I.
|
|
Hi Guys,
I have been asked to refinish a dining room table pro bono. I am happy to do this, but need advice. I will post pictures later, but want to get initial info.
It is a 12' table with 3 pedestal legs, each leg with intricate carvings and ball and claw legs. Typical scratches and dings on the bases are no problem. The tabletop is another matter. It seems to be constructed of MDF with a mahogany veneer. It has a 3" border and a veneer pattern of each section or leaf split into quarters. The veneer has loose areas that are bubbled up along the grain pattern, and along the edge border. A typical loose area is about 2" long and about 1/4" wide.
Before I dive into a free job to help a good person out, I need to determine if the top is worth saving. Can you give me some advice on general veneer repair options and technique? I can do a complete strip and refinish if needed, but will that make it worse? Keep in mind that I can make chicken salad out of chicken poop in regards to finishes, but I don't know my ass from my elbow about veneer contruction. . . .
|
|
|
|
|
|
   |
    |
|
Jeff
Site Owner
Age: 58
Joined: 10 Feb 2003
Posts: 3428
Location: USA
|
|
Tim
I wouldn't repair it. Problems you describe are typical of incorrect veneering. Maybe there is no cross-banding underneath or the reverse isn't veneered. Either way it sounds like there is movement going on that isn't counter-balanced.
My 2 cents.................
|
|
|
|
_________________
Jeff Jewitt
Forum Administrator
|
|
  |
  |
|
Tim Leahy
Moderator
Age: 52
Joined: 08 Mar 2005
Posts: 1075
Location: Newport R.I.
|
|
| I'll take those 2 cents. One of our carpentry gurus essentially said the same thing. I will scuff it, use a barrier coat and give it 1 topcoat. 2 hrs for free and I will explain the veneer is shot. Thanks. . .
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
dave_the_woodworker
Senior Member
Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 88
Location: Greensboro
|
|
Tim,
It might be worth trying a quick fix to one of the bubbled areas to see if it's worth your time to do the rest. You can cut a slit in the veneer along the grain and inject a small amount of glue and clamp flat. It may not be a completely invisible repair but will flatten out some of the larger bubbles.
Dave
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
Don Stephan
Long Servant
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
Posts: 630
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
|
|
If you're looking for a learning chance, and there aren't more than 3-5 loose spots, you could try gluing them back down and be a hero to the owner. Sounds like a good piece to experiment on. If more than a few spots, sounds like general failure and not worth getting started.
I've heard some people were successful with cyanoacrylate glue doing this, but I wasn't. Others swear by a bit of PVA glue, but the moisture content would bother me. Granted, hide glue also contains water, but I haven't had veneer swelling as significant as when I tried PVA. You could slice a bubble enough to work a thin coat of liquid hide glue onto one or both surfaces, cover with sheet of plastic film and then a smooth block (MDF? melamine scrap?) and clamp or gallon jug of sand. But only after getting permission/waiver from owner . . .
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
View next topic
View previous topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum
|
All times are GMT - 5 Hours
 31774 Attacks blocked |
|
|
[ Time: 0.6788s ][ Queries: 27 (0.0729s) ][ GZIP on - Debug on ] |
Calendar
