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mjd430
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Joined: 01 Aug 2010
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:31 am  Post subject: Question fixing drip marks on a french door Reply with quoteBottom of PageBack to top

Hello,

I have a brand new Andersen french door that I bought from Home Depot and had it installed recently. My buddy (a total newbie as well as I) was helping me stain the door and didn't realize you need to wipe off the excess stain after a few minutes and now there are dried up drip marks. Is there any way I can fix that? I used Minwax PolyShades Stain and Polyurethane in 1 step. I've attached a picture.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me!

Matt


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R Boardman
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Joined: 23 May 2003
Posts: 1227
Location: NJ
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:09 am  Post subject:  (No subject) Reply with quoteBottom of PageBack to top

Matt

3 ways come to mind:
1) A razor blade laid flat and pushed thru the drip to level it off.
2) A microplaner (see link)
http://www.konigtouchup.com/BuyNow/metalplaner.html
3) Sanding smooth

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Bob "Boardman" Borders

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mjd430
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:15 am  Post subject:  (No subject) Reply with quoteBottom of PageBack to top

Hi Bob,

Thanks for your reply. If I were to go for the sandpaper route, which grit size should I use? And would I use it on just the drip marks, or would I have to go over the whole door again? Is there anything else I should do to it after I do that (like staining it again?) Sorry for all the questions! Thanks again.


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R Boardman
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Joined: 23 May 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:57 am  Post subject:  (No subject) Reply with quoteBottom of PageBack to top

Matt
I'd start with a 320 grit. If it sands down to level, great. Chances are you'll have to go to a 220 grit to get close to level, and then go to a 320 and a 400 grit paper. Once done, you can apply some of the Polyshades using an artist's brush. Polyshades is a difficult finish to repair. Once the new stuf is dry, and if the color match is good, you should scuff sand the entire door with a 400 grit, remove dust, and apply 1 coat of a wipe-on poly. That will give you an even sheen and help level out any imperfections.

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jack warner
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 12:07 am  Post subject:  (No subject) Reply with quoteBottom of PageBack to top

the problem with poly shade is if you dont get an even color ( caused by everlaping brush marks, your pretty much stuck. you may need to strip. the only time i add color to my poly is darkin my over all finish. imo your better off using a gel stain, and clear coat. that way your color ( stain ) wont be moved around with a brush.

you want to be very carfull not to sand through to the wood, then your stuck with blending in your bald spot.


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