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Thos A-B
Starting Member
Age: 33
Joined: 16 Feb 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Madison, WI
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Hello,
I've been reading through the forum and studying articles on coloring Maple. I have a project made of hard Maple that needs to look like Mohagany. I do not have a sprayer.
Is the following recipe going to cause me grief? Should I change anything?
1. Orbital Sand with 120, 150, 180.
2. Sponge wood with water to raise grain.
3. Hand Sand with 220.
4. Washcoat with amber shellac (1 lb cut). Dry 30 minutes. Sand with 320.
5. Apply Bartley Gel Stain “Pennsylvania Cherry” color-tuned with TransTint Dyes to match existing furniture.
6. Topcoat with amber shellac (1 lb cut) – three coats, sanding between coats.
Any advice is appreciated!
Thanks,
Tom Anderson-Brown
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Jeff
Site Owner
Age: 56
Joined: 10 Feb 2003
Posts: 3279
Location: USA
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| Sounds like a plan. I see no issues.
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_________________
Jeff Jewitt
Forum Administrator
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Thos A-B
Starting Member
Age: 33
Joined: 16 Feb 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Madison, WI
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Jeff,
Thanks for the response. I'll post pictures when I'm done.
Tom
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Don Stephan
Long Servant
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
Posts: 376
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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| Don't hesitate to test drive the finishing schedule on one or more pieces of leftover maple. Good luck!
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Thos A-B
Starting Member
Age: 33
Joined: 16 Feb 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Madison, WI
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| Oh yes, I certainly will test it out first!
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Thos A-B
Starting Member
Age: 33
Joined: 16 Feb 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Madison, WI
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Hello. I've proceeded on my maple bunk bed project with the following recipe:
1. Sand 120, 150, 180.
2. Sealcoat with 1 lb cut of amber shellac.
3. Stain with Water/trans tint mix to darken wood (somewhat).
4. Apply Van Dyke Brown Glaze.
The pictures attached show my progress up to this point. I am not too excited about what I see.
The inconsistency of the glaze is troublesome. Also, I had a few areas where the stain didn't soak in, and I tried to come back with more glaze but it seemed to wash away what was beneath, making it lighter.
I'm at the point where I think paint would look better than what I'm attempting. Any ideas?
I'm thinking my client will get a 50% discount for a job I put a lot of time into. I should have spent the money on walnut!
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preeng2
Member
Age: 55
Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 27
Location: E. Hanover, NJ
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Tom,
You changed the schedule from your first post. Did you try your new schedule out on a sample board before proceeding with the bed? You needed to seal the dye stain before applying the glaze. What glaze are you using?
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Thos A-B
Starting Member
Age: 33
Joined: 16 Feb 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Madison, WI
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I did change it slightly. I had to darken the wood under the glaze (General Finishes VanDyke Brown Glaze). Applying the glaze to maple created a zebra stripe effect.
I think I'll sand it all off and just use Watco Danish Oil. What do you think?
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preeng2
Member
Age: 55
Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 27
Location: E. Hanover, NJ
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| Was that a water base glaze?
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preeng2
Member
Age: 55
Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 27
Location: E. Hanover, NJ
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Tom,
It looks like that is a water base glaze and by you not sealing in the dye stain, the glaze when you applied it and moved it around picked up the dye. Here is what I would have done using your schedule.
Sand
Raise grain (I usually just knock down any grain raise if any after sealing in the dye)
Sand
Wash coat (I don't worry about blotching when I use a dye stain. One man's blotch is another man's grain figure.)
Dye stain
Seal dye (I use a dewaxed shellac)
Apply a coat of finish
Glaze (with what you used, although water base glazes are very difficult to use because they dry so fast. You could have used a solvent base gel stain for a glaze.)
Finish of your choice. (With all the stiles you have and you not having spray equipment I would use some form of a wiping varnish.
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